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Sep
27

Ode to the Pink TriCam

Ode to the Pink Tricam

Oh Pink’s the one I love to place
when I’m alone way up in space
on some exposed and airy face.

They sink where other gear won’t go.
When all you’ve got is manky pro,
This tricam saves your butt from woe.

But it’s often hard to get them out;
They make your second moan and shout
And wave his nut tool ’round about

But that’s why you’re the one on lead
Your problems are a different breed
As long as someone does the deed…

“Oh quit your whimpering,” you rumble,
“And get it out or there’ll be trouble”
“Get to work now, on the double!”

Although it sometimes takes a while,
They do come out with vim and guile,
(or chiselling and curses vile.)

Pink will do what all the rest.
Won’t do when they’re put to the test.
Oh pink tricams are just the best!

– Charles “Pinky” Danforth

Sep
13

Vocab Lesson #1

At the insistent, repeated urging of Sherpa, I finally signed up on www.rockclimbing.com to utilize the Log Book feature to record and track my ascents. To log an ascent, you have to define your “Ascent Style.” As shaking your head “NoNo” wasn’t an option in the drop-down menu, here are the definitions for the more common styles. Vocab Lesson #1.

  • OnSight: Lead a route for the first time with no falls, no takes, no beta.
  • Flash: Lead a route for the first time with no falls and no takes, but all the beta you can remember.
  • RedPoint: Lead a route with no falls and no takes. (This can be your second attempt or 105th; it just has to be clean.)
  • TopRope: Climb a route on a rope anchored above the climber prior to the climb.

Sep
08

Music Mon…er Wednesday

It was a long weekend this weekend, and Monday brought many things, but no computer access. Monday was spent climbing ROCK…So I give you so F’ing ROCK!

Special props for doing what you love – like lip-synching.

BOOM!

Sep
08

Training Section

Disclaimer: Nothing will make you a better climber than climbing.

Yeah, okay, we got it.  I think John Gill (above) might disagree.  We also know that Chris Sharma and Sonnie Trotter aren’t exactly fat-asses either.

In this section of the blog we’re going to talk about how to get strong.  Not bodybuilding strong or beach muscle strong.  So if you’re looking for how to blow-out your pecs or chisel your calves, walk on down to the nearest Globo-Gym ’cause you’re not gonna find it here.

We’ll be focusing on one thing: making you a stronger climber.

In general, we’ll be discussing three things:
1 – Overall Fitness
2 – Climbing Specific Exercises
3 – Nutrition

Basically, we think you should have a combination of climbing and all elements above to be the best athlete and climber possible.  If you’re missing one of the legs in this pyramid, you’re probably not reaching your max potential.

So, If this is what you’re looking for, then we’ve got the cure for what ails you. Read on my young padawans and let the pain begin…

Sep
08

New School Tradster

Thanks to splitboarder for hooking this one up…in this episode of Xtranormal, Harvey invites Venus to try his sick new “trad” proj.

Aug
30

Music Mondays

It’s Monday, and that means I’m really not into work. Check out this vid from Broken Bells.

BLAADOW!

Aug
29

180 Degrees South

Yes, Yvon is a beast. Has anyone seen this? Anyone want to give their old copy?

180 SOUTH TRAILER BY WOODSHED FILMS from mesurfTV on Vimeo.

Aug
29

The Sharp End Trailer

Love it when ol’ boy lets out a scream when his third piece of pro catches while he’s zippering….also, what the hell is that guy doing jumping to that pillar?

The Sharp End Trailer by Sender Films from Sender Films on Vimeo.

Aug
29

900m of 5.13/14 pitches with Dynos on El Cap

This summer in Croatia, I onsighted a bunch of 5b/c’s (5.9+) and I thought, “I’m the man.” Then I saw Tommy and Kevin and was once again reminded that clearly no, I’m not the man. I am not the man at all.

VIDEO Part 2: BD athletes Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson attempting to free El Cap’s hardest climb from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Aug
27

How to tell if you will get laid at a climbing festival

Whether it’s the Rifle Cleanup, the Red River Rendezvous, or the International Climbers Festival, climbing events are awesome. Usually, there is beer, dancing, lots of shenanigans and typically at least a few girls. And often you end up spending a lot time wondering if you going to get laid. If only you knew the answer …
http://pimpinandcrimpin.com/2009/10/20/how-to-tell-if-you-will-get-laid-at-a-climbing-festival/

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